okay I'm gonna demonstrate the USC 10th edition procedures for testing a spill
resistant vacuum breaker and I'm going to be using a Midwest 845 five valve kit
the only hose I need on the kit is the high side hose so that's I want to make
sure that I remove my other two hoses I don't need them so I might as well
remove them okay so I'm gonna notify the owner that I'm going to be testing I'm
gonna identify inspect and observe the assembly all right this is my spill
resistant vacuum breaker it's got SVB cast into the body so that
I know that it's a spill resistant vacuum breaker the other way I know it's
a spill resistant vacuum breakers it has a vent screw in it and it says so also
on the nameplate the other thing is have a direction of flow arrow on this
assembly so flow is up and out so that's my direction of flow so now I'm going to
take and remove the canopy for the spill resistant vacuum breaker I'm gonna flush
my test cock
alright I'm also going to flush my vent screw just to make sure it's not plugged
which just basically means loosing it enough enough loosing loosening it up
enough so that I can see that water will come out of it so I'm going to tighten
that back up once I see if I got water coming out all right I'm gonna attach my
compensating valve to my test cock and I'm gonna connect my high side hose to
my compensating valve I'm gonna open up the test cock which you watch the gauge
will drive the gauge to the upper limit of the gauge okay next I'm gonna purge
make sure all the airs out of mine hose and out of my test gauge by I'm gonna
open up my high side bleed valve alright and on a spill resistant vacuum breaker
you don't have to but most people will fill the space above the air inlet valve
with water because it helps identify when the air inlet valve opens alright
now now that I've done that I'm going to shut off shut off valve number two
okay I'm gonna elevate my test kit to the proper height my house is giving me
a little bit trouble so I'm adjusting my hose okay and on a spill resistant
vacuum breaker the proper height is the vent screw so my center line of the gauge
is even with the vent screw so i've elevate i'm gonna isolate and i'm gonna
test and on a spill resistant vacuum breaker the first thing you test is the
value for the check valve has to be a minimum of one PSI so if it's one PSI or
greater it's a passing value
when you remove this vent screw you want to do it slowly if you just take it out
real fast because you know whatever the pressure is on the on the body you know
you can shoot that screw across the room and then it goes down into the drain and
then you're kind of in a world of hurt because you've now lost the screw so
typically what I'll do is I'll screw it out a little bit wiggle the screw
okay I'm gonna watch my gauge and I'm gonna wait for the till I actually see
the pressure going down on my gauge before I actually completely remove the
screw okay so the water the pressure is going down in my gauge you know now I
can remove this screw without worrying about it flying across the room I'm
gonna set my screw down somewhere where I won't lose it and just like any other
check valve that you can do the test when water stops flowing and your gauge
is stabilized so it appears that water is stopped flowing and my gauge is
stabilized I have a value on the test gauge of 4.2 PSID so in my case the
check valve holds tight at 4.8 PSID now without setting down the gauge I'm gonna
move on to testing the air inlet valve opening point and to do this I'm gonna
put my finger below the vent screw and I'm gonna wait so that I can feel the
water come out while I'm watching the gauge so that I know when the air inlet
opens to test the air inlet I am going to open my high side bleed valve just a
little bit because usually this hole happens pretty quickly so you won't
don't want to open it very much and watch my gauge and and feel for the
water dripping on my finger okay the water dripped on my finger
just about 2.2 there is no about at 2.2 PSID so my air inlet valve opened at
2.2 PSID once I get my value I'm going to close my high side bleed valve I'm
gonna remove my high side hose and you can remove the hose and the compensating
valve together once I've removed it then I can set the test gauge down once I've
set the test gauge down I'm gonna look inside the body of the assembly here to
make sure that my air inlet valve is fully open and I'm gonna report that my
air inlet valve is fully open once I've reported that my air inlet valve is
fully open I'm gonna replace the vent screw one thing to pay attention on
these vent screws is almost all of them have a little rubber o-ring you want to
make sure that little rubber o-ring is still there so I'm going to replace my
vent screw which is not easy from the wrong side of the body all right
all right I'm gonna open my number one shutoff valve yeah I'm gonna make sure
that my test cock is also closed all right it's one of the reasons why you
open your shutoff valve slowly in case you forget something like that I'm gonna
open my number-two shutoff valve to get my customer back in service I'm gonna
replace the canopy I'm gonna make sure all my equipment has been removed and
I'm gonna fill out the test report legibly accurately and completely and I
am now through testing the spill resistant vacuum breaker