all right I am going to demonstrate the procedures for testing an RP using the
USC 10th edition procedures so I'm gonna be using a Midwest 5 valve test kit I am gonna
need all the hoses I don't need the compensating valve so I might as well
get rid of the compensating well I am gonna get set up though by connecting my
hoses to the test kit make sure I have that all done so I will need all three
hoses double check my everything's closed all right now I've got my test
kit ready so now I'm gonna test the RP by notifying the owner and identify
inspect and observe on the RP again there's a tag on it that says our P the
direction of flow we're on it tells me direction of flow I can also identify
the RV RP v because it has a relief valve on the bottom of it
you do want to be careful because sometimes people mistake or they mistake
the double check valve for the RP a the RP for the double check valve they look
very similar you want to make sure you got the RP so I've got this is my RP
directional flows that way shut off valve number one shut up valve number
two tests cock number one test cock number two test cock number three test
cock number four now with the RP there's a very specific order in which you have
to flush the test cocks the order is meant to keep you from premature early
relief making the relief valve open up and to do that what we do is we get flow
going through the assembly by the first test cock we open is test cock number
four
so you want to open it wash it good and then you can you know you can turn it
down a little bit so it doesn't have to be full bore all right
then I'm gonna slowly open up test cock number three again you're trying not to
dump the relief valve so I'm gonna slowly open up test cock number three and again
I'm gonna leave it running again I'm gonna slowly open up test cock number
two all right I'm gonna leave it running
I'm going to open up test cock number one
all right once you flush test cock number one you're going to close the
test cocks on the verse order so I'm going to close test cock number one I'm
gonna close test cock number two I'm gonna close I'm going to close test cock
number three and I'm going to close test cock number four next I'm going to hook
my high side hose up to test cock number two and I'm going to hook my low side hose
up to test cock number three make sure everything's turned off I'm going to
open up and again this is very important the order you open up the low side hose
or you open up test cock number three first and you get water purged out of
there in this case I'm purging a bunch of air out of the hose and the test kit
so it takes a little bit all right now because we're doing the low side notice
the gauge doesn't go up because on the back side of this what you're doing is
you're putting water on this side which actually drives the gauge down all right
so I leave that on I leave my high control my high vent excuse me my low
vent control valve open I'm gonna open up test cock number two and this will
cause the gauge to go up all right I'm gonna open up
my high bleed valve
all right make sure I get all the air out of it let it run for a little bit
I'm gonna close my high bleed valve make sure that drives my gauge up to the upper
end and then I'm gonna whoop sorry before I I'm gonna back up here a little
bit so now that I've got them both going I've reopened up my high side bleep valve
with both of them open I need to reach down and close shut off valve number two
once I close shut off valve number two then I close my high bleed valve make
sure it's driven the gauge up to the high end closed my low bleep valve and
waiting for it to settle and observe the reading and this is my apparent
differential cross check valve number one so I look at it's like adds 10 psi
okay what this is telling me is is that check valve number one is working I
don't know for sure if that's the right reading that's why they call it apparent
and you'll understand later on when we show the Diagnostics so what this is
really telling me is is that yeah check valve number one is reading I can now
continue on to test the relief valve opening point now the relief valve
opening point needs to be 2 psi or greater that's the minimum this 2 psi so
the way I'm going to test the relief valve opening point is I am gonna bleed
water from the high side to the low side by manipulating the control valves on
the bottom of the test kit so this is my high side control valve I'm gonna open
it approximately a turn and then I'm going to open up my low side control
valve no more than a quarter turn in most cases
you don't even need to open it a quarter turn you just need to open it a little
bit so that the gauge starts to move like that like I've barely opened it any
there I'm gonna put my hand underneath the relief valve so I can observe the
gauge I'm waiting to feel the relief valve open and drip on my hand so it
started dripping now it's continuing to drip and I'm at four point four psi D
you do want to be careful that it's not just a drip coming off the body so you
want it to be more than one drip so my relief valve is opened at four point
four psi D which case I'm going to close the low control valve leave the high
control valve open I'm gonna take my vent hose here I'm
gonna open the vent control valve and purge my vent hose of air once I
purge it of air I'm gonna immediately hook my vent hose on to test cock number
four and it's also very important that you immediately open test cock number
four okay I'm gonna re-establish the differential by opening up my low bleed
and you need to open the low bleed so that the gauge goes up towards the top
technically it has to just go above the your apparent reading so I'm gonna make
sure that I'm back above the apparent reading I'm gonna open up my vent
control knob by opening up this yellow knob and I'm gonna observe what happens
my gauge holds tight doesn't move bleed valve doesn't open that tells me that
check valve number two closes tight the gauge is actually still reading the
pressure differential across check valve number one so it's not actually giving
you any kind of reading across check valve number two it's just telling you
the check number two holds tight this seems a
little bit odd but the next thing you do is you're going to open your low control
valve to re-establish your differential let your gauge settle and then this is
the true reading across check valve number one and with this case it's nine
point seven PSID so it was a little bit different than my apparent but not a
whole lot different so check valve holds tight at 9.7 PSID check
valve one holds tight at 9.7 PSID next I can set down the gauge
however it is very important that you close all the test cocks before you open
up shutoff valve number two so I'm going to close all my test cocks I'm gonna
slowly open up shut off valve number two to get my customer back in service and
then I'm gonna remove the hoses from my RP all right I'm gonna notify the owner
that I'm done I'm gonna fill out a test report completely accurately and
legibly and that concludes my test of the RP assembly